Sunday, May 30, 2010

SIDE TRIP TO COSTA RICA

Presently our most important issue is Immigration. Our Immigration Visa's run out on May 23rd.

For weeks we have been researching our options. We have read and verbally been told so many different stories we decided to once more go back to Panama City to the Dept. of Immigration. We find the Tourist Extension Line and have six people in front of us. After waiting over one hour there are still three people in front of us. At this time a man comes by carrying paperwork and at least 10 passports. We have heard their are agents, so we start asking him questions and he tells us number one we are in the wrong line and number two that he can help us once we get a package together with extra pictures of ourselves, copies of passports, copies of cruising permits etc. etc. So we say okay and that we will be back in four days, after the weekend. On the weekend he in fact calls us and says we had better wait as he needs to check and see if there is any other information Immigration will need. Again he phones back on Monday and says we can not get an extension and that we will have to leave the country.


Allayne and Dennis (Audrey Paige) have the same Immigration dilemma as us and have opted to sail down to Colombia..





Adios until we meet up again in San Blas.









We start looking at flights etc. and decide we will go to Panama City one more time, as we need to pick up our new toilet that has just arrived through Pakya. This time when we arrive at Immigration there is no line up and we are invited into the office immediately. The supervisor Rayman Omar is very friendly and speaks fluent English. We explain our situation and he explains, yes in fact we do have to leave the country because Panama and Canada do not have a reciprocal Immigration agreement. He sees we are dissappointed and calls his supervisor. After a lengthy conversation he explains the best they can do is give us a thirty day extension which would mean every thirty days we would have to go back into the office. He says, go to Costa Rica for 48 hours and upon re-entering Panama you will be given a 6 month Immigration Visa....SIX MONTHS...Now that would be perfect especially with hurricane season fast approaching. He explains a new law was passed April 27th changing ones stay from 3 months to 6 months. So back to Shelter Bay, we get organized packing small knapsacks and then we return to Panama City the next morning for a bus ride to San José, Costa Rica.

The Tica Line bus is very clean and has a bathroom. We leave Panama City at 1100hours and will get into San José at approximately 0100hours the next day. Yes, a 15 hour bus ride..We did not have much of a delay at the border. First we had to check out of Panama which included having all the luggage taken off the bus, put on the cement floor in a small room where it is checked by a dog, then checked manually. The luggage then is returned to the bus for an approx. 200 yard stop at the Costa Rica Immigration where again all the luggage is hauled off the bus and checked.

We were served two meals while traveling plus snacks, all included in the $40 ticket price.

We were very impressed that the bus depot in San José actually had rooms for rent at $38, so we decided to take one. It was very clean, included a private bathroom and had a small television. Next morning we went around the corner to a hostel for breakfast. They even let us sign into their wi-fi where we looked for hotel options near the city center. Before leaving the bus depot we thought it would be best to purchase our return tickets. The ticket agent forgot to give us ten dollars of our change. When we went back and questioned him, he did not say sorry, just turned around and got us the money....Most interesting. He in fact gave us our change partly in US funds and partly Colones, their local currency, possibly to confuse us perhaps!

Deciding on Best Western we took a short two dollar cab ride to our destination. What was interesting at Best Western was the young lady quoted us a price. We said we saw on the Internet that it was approximately twenty nine dollars less.... She said the best she could do was give us 10% off but suggested we sit in the lobby and use their computer to register on-line. So of course we did that and it only took half an hour for her to receive the confirmation. It was a nice bonus to be allowed to get into the room immediately even though it was only 11am. A welcome beverage was included in the price, plus breakfast. We booked the room for two nights even though during the second night we would be leaving at 2130hours for the bus depot.

There are many Museums in San José.We chose the Pre-Columbian Gold Museum. We decided to take a taxi...Well, TOURIST BEWARE!!! We knew the taxi`s here use meters. The taxi we got into we asked how much it would be and where was his meter...He said he uses the odometer which he had changed to 0. We were suspicious but stayed in. We knew the Museum was only a few blocks away...Once we arrived at the destination he uncovered his meter which in fact read that we owed him almost 12000 Colones, which is $24US. The fight was on.... Two dollars is all he got....


The architecture is most impressive.












The streets full of people. We decided it was not a good idea to walk around at night.










Being inland it was noticeably cooler.












Before we knew it, it was time to pack up our bags and head for the bus depot. The trip back to Panama was not as quick as we hoped. The bus left at its' 2100 scheduled hour however arriving at the Costa Rica Immigration we had to wait over an hour as their was no one to process our Passports until 6am...Very frustrating. Finally when two people showed up, one did exits and one entrances. Well, the one doing entrances was not busy but unfortunately I guess it was not his responsibilty to help out with the exit line....So again this took about an hour with the odd hold up, where someone was being extensively questioned....not pulled out of the line, but just holding up the line. Aughhhhh

Finally everyone is next sent to the Panama Immigration. We are told we have to buy a ticket back to Costa Rica..After much explanation stating we are not going back to Costa Rica, but to our boat in Panama, showing all the necessary boat papers he finally lets us through. Of course we ask and "We have six months"?? He just looks at me slamming down the passports. We quickly looked to make sure the passports are stamped and we cannot find where my passport stamp is. Randy's is rght where we think it should be, but mine, well, back in the line and for some reason he has stamped it on top of other stamps back five pages??? Our frustrations are not over. Only when everyone on the bus has gone through the Immigration process will they start to take the luggage off the bus. Now Randy and I only have our knapsacks but we are not allowed to clear our baggage until everyone is ready. We are all put back in the small room, and wait, no they will not check luggage yet....they call 12 peoples names and take their passports and start to thoroghly check them out while the rest of us can only wait and watch.....No such thing as clearing the rest of us out of the room which is getting real hot.
Finally we are on our way. We finally arrive back in Panama City close to 1700 hours instead of the 1300 hours so we decided we will spend the night. The next morning we decided to go back to the Immigration Office just to confirm we have the six months. Mr. Omar recognizes us and he gets back on the phone and confirms even though their is no actual date in our passports six months from now we do in fact have the time. Hooray!!!!

If there is a next time however, we have decided we will fly!!









Sunday, May 16, 2010

HAUL OUT TIME--TWICE

It's been two years since our last haul out which was in St. Maarten.

We have decided we will haul out here at Shelter Bay now that our dripless coupling has arrived from Peter & Eileen (Appleseeds) via "Not So Interim". How did this work?---The cruising community at it's best. Peter brought the part from Vancouver to Cartagena, Colombia where unfortunately we had already left for San Blas. Weeks later they arrive in San Blas but we are much further west. We make it up to Shelter Bay and they are still in San Blas, hear their friends on "Not So Interim" are heading for Shelter Bay and ask them to deliver our part.

Needing anti-fouling we make a trip to Panama City. This is where we confirm how well the Panama transit system works. We left Shelter Bay Marina on the 0800 complimentary bus which takes us to the Colon Bus Station where an air conditioned express bus awaits passengers. As soon as the bus is full it leaves. The cost for this two hour journey to Panama City is $2.50 each. Arriving at the Albrook Bus Station we hail a cab to take us to the paint store. We get the 5 gallon can of anti-fouling while the taxi waits; then he takes us back to the Albrook Bus Station where we load our paint into the express bus and again when the bus is full it's off back to Colon. We arrive back in Colon in time for the 1530hours bus ride back to the Marina.
We are pleasantly surprized at how clean the hull looks. The two year old anti-fouling that we put on in St. Maarten still looks pretty good except for the rudder.






















We take down the old bimini which has completely rotted through at the seams and put up a make shift awning to give us some protection from the very hot sun. It is not only hot, but there is not even a breeze which of course then brings around the no-seeums primarily at dawn and dusk. They attack us with a vengeance making us retreat inside the boat.





New anti-fouling with a raised water line.
After two weeks of frustration with the sewing machine we finally get it to work well enough to make the new bimini. Between tension problems, wrong size thread for the needle size, the biggest issue was the machine timing which we had never had to repair ourselves before....Needless to say I was a very happy lady once we got it up and running.






Randy however is not happy with our lower rudder bushing and feels we should replace it now so we order a new one from Beneteau. Pakya shipping works very well from the United States. Two weeks later our part arrives in Panama City so back we go to pick it up.

Hauling out again Randy manages to replace the bushing within a day so this time we were able to get back in the water after only one night.

Monday, May 10, 2010

Shelter Bay Marina & Our Panama Canal Transit as Line Handlers








What a treat being a Shelter Bay Marina. They presently have a monopoly with the Panama Canal Yacht Club being torn down. Anchoring at the area known as the “Flats” is not an option as there is no access to the mainland.

My first task is laundry, which takes all day; yes we had alot of laundry!!! Then a very overdue interior and exterior cleaning is started. We especially are enjoying the wifi connection. Initially sporadic, upgrades are being done and we can actually access wifi on the boat. There is one restaurant with a limited menu where we enjoy meeting up with friends after a busy day for sundowners. There’s also a very large T.V. room where Randy can watch his favourite soccer team. It’s furnished with games tables, chairs, sofa’s and computer stalls making this air conditioned room very inviting.
Shelter Bay Marina is surrounded by Sherman National Park where we regularly enjoy walks. We can hear the cry of the howler monkeys; see the small brown faced monkey, ant eaters, along with gorgeous vibrant turquoise with copper underside butterflies. The park is a bird watchers joy. These leaf cutter ants are amazing. Of course with the heat and humidity we have no-seeums and now a few mosquitoes





Shelter Bay offers a free bus service twice a day into Colon. The 15 mile trip can take anywhere from 30-90 minutes depending on our arrival at the Gatun Lock. If ships are entering or departing all vehicle traffic waits. We usually wear long pants when going into the city blending in with the local conservative Panamanians.

Panama’s legal tender is the U.S. dollar which the locals call Balboa.

The public transit is fabulous. The local converted US school buses are decorated with airbrush pictures of National scenes and heroes. Often our rides are one to two dollars and of course we try and get one with working air conditioning. Before entering a taxi we always ask “How much?” If we do not like the quote we say a kind “Thank you” where on negotiations may ensue. If not we just close the door and wait for the next taxi.

Not as convenient as the bus system once a day a train leaves from Panama City to Colon in the morning, returning late afternoon the same day.

We were pleasantly surprised when Don and Devin arrived on Liquid Courage.









We jumped at the chance when asked to be line handlers on Liquid Courage for their Canal Transit. One of the skipper requirements for transiting the canal, set up by the ACP,(Panama Canal Authority) is the necessity to have four line handlers over and above the skipper.







Devin’s’ girlfriend Jen arrived from Vegas for the transit experience.

Another ACP requirement is having adequate fenders. The recommendation is a fender every 3 to 4 feet on each side of the vessel. As most private vessels do not carry sufficient fenders they rent car tires that have been covered with plastic garbage bags. The walls of the locks are very rough and can cause considerable damage.




Four mooring lines not less than 125 feet long each with a 7/8’’ diameter are also required. These too can be rented. The reason for so many tires and fenders is there are three potential types of lockages for vessels under 125 feet: Center of chamber, sidewall or beside an ACP tugboat.

Leaving the Caribbean small vessel transits usually takes two days with tying to a mooring necessary overnight on Gatun Lake.
Don is given a tentative pilot time of 1615 hours for the scheduled transit which means we will leave Shelter Bay around 1230 hours and head for the “Flats”.








The pilot boat arrives with our Advisor.












For our transit we are tied to one other S/V just before entering the chamber. Together we make a “center chamber lockage” which will keep both boats in the center of the lock away from the potential harmful side walls.








Unfortunately it’s already dark entering the first of the three Gatun Locks. We are positioned behind a large freighter.
















Our advisor stays with us until we reach the large mooring balls in Gatun Lake. After a late dinner finishing at 2230 hours we are all so tired we just need to go to bed.

Early next morning (0600hours) a new Advisor arrives and we’re on our way across Gatun Lake. Gatun Lake extends across the isthmus. At the time it was built the Gatun Dam and Lake were the largest built structures in the world. We travel over 20 nm to enter Gaillard Cut. We comment on the water being so dirty. Our advisor explains this has been caused by the expansion of the Canal.

The Canal is very busy. We are told some forty ships transit the canal a day at an average cost of $250,000 each.
Entering Gaillard Cut we are asked to hug the buoy markers to give more room to the enormous freighters through this narrow waterway. Gaillard Cut originally called Culebra (or snake) was carved through the rock and shale of the Continental Divide.






Land markers light up at night for ships to line up with so they can make safe turns through the Cut.








A few freighters throw off such a wake we had our tires torn off our sides.










Devin and Randy retrieving a tire.











We put large loops,approximately two feet in circumference at one end of all the 125 foot lines. As we come up to the locks we are thrown from shore a “monkey fist” which is a long piece of twine rope with a twine ball approximately half the size of a baseball at one end. We attach the monkey fist first through our dock lines and then the ACP line handlers on the lock wall start pulling our lines up securing them to large cleats on the wall.



Once the chamber starts filling with water we slowly take up the slack or in the case of a lock emptying water we slowly let the lines go slack ensuring we keep in the center of the chamber at all times.








Out of the chamber we are on our way to the next lock.

























A happy crew, by 1400 hours we are anchored off Playita de Amador, Panama City