Sunday, July 31, 2011

Roatan, Honduras to Rio Dulce, Guatemala

125MILES TO GO
June 1st. Checking out at Coxen Hole, Roatan was very straight forward.  We were most fortunate both the Port Captain and Immigration Officer were in their respective offices. Often on “Cruise ship days” it is necessary to search for them at either the airport or the cruise ship dock.
June 2nd. At first light we’re on our way with our buddy boats: Interlude and Niki Wiki.
Our coarse is set at 266*. We’ve got a gentle swell off the starboard stern quarter; wind on our nose----Figures!!! The main is up but---OOPS!  the GPS has stopped. Rand reboots and all is well.






Five hours later we have only travelled 21.8 miles but the winds are finally picking up, albeit still on the nose. And the seas; well, they have totally reversed and are on the port bow.






 

Using our radar we tried and succeeded dodging a number of squalls.








 

Throughout the night we regularly checked the radar and saw a number of freighters.  At one point around midnight we had a freighter anchored on our port side. Then on our starboard it looked like another freighter was anchored? We decided to slow down and sure enough the freighter to our starboard was not anchored but was in fact slowly passing us. Before we knew it we were again in total blackness. This area is where the Canadian cruiser had been murdered last year so we were really on the alert.
After 26 hours we’re almost there. We’re awaiting high tide off the Garifuna town of Livingston. And why are we waiting for high tide??? We need to cross a very shallow sandbar at the mouth (La Buga) of the Rio Dulce. The average depth is 5’8 to 6 feet. High States draws 6 feet so high tide should give us an additional one and a half feet meaning we should have 1.5 feet under the keel. Tight but as friend Jay on Rum Runner would say it's do-able. For boats with a deeper keel there is the option of being “tipped” over while crossing the bar.



Approaching the bar Rand keeps total concentration on the compass.







 
High States flying the Q flag off Livingston, Guatemala.








 
Customs and Immigration delegation arriving at Niki Wiki

We had taken Interludes advice and did an on-line pre check in for Guatemala by emailing agent Raul@navieraservamar@gmail.com . He can also be contacted via his website at www.servamar.com .









Within half an hour of anchoring off Livingston Raul along with the Port Captain, Immigration Officer and Health Officer were on High States. Because Raul had all our general information we only needed to hand over the official boat registration, crews list and passports.  We were asked the usual questions; do we have fire arms or drugs on board and then they were on their way. We were advised to come ashore in an hour to pick up port clearance documentation and our stamped passports.  Excellent quick friendly service.
Rand taking the “Captains” ashore to pick up the documents. Our cost for three months Port/Immigration fees was $160.00 (1200Q)

Lynn stayed on High States for security plus the current was strong, the holding not great.






The town of Livingston is very isolated; accessible only by boat or plane.

Sharing the river with the locals. There are approximately 50 isolated villages in the mountains along the Rio Dulce.







As we begin up the Rio we are impressed with many quaint homes. You can see the rivers current pushing by these mooring balls.







High States rounding one of the hairpin bends in the Rio Gorge. It is recommended for security not to stop overnight at Livingston or on the River.  It’s not only narrow with a swift current, approximately one knot; but fishing nets and unlit boat traffic are some of the additional hazards.









 
The Gorge is amazing. Approximately 6 miles long carved between 300 foot high limestone cliffs covered in dense jungle foliage. We’ve read the first Tarzan movies were made here. The river twists and turns with a number of shallow shoals marked with narrow bamboo stakes. The river depth ranged from 10 to 60 feet.. The native Maya Indians in their dug out unmotorized cayukos hug the shoreline to keep out of the current.







The Gorge opens into El Golfete; a 9 nautical mile long shallow lake full of small tributaries and marshes. We’re on the lookout for the endangered Manatees.








Once across the lake we are back in the river heading for the Marina district. Mario’s is one of the first of at least twelve marinas after leaving El Golfete and will be our home for the next five months.
Celebrating our arrival with our buddy boats at the Cayuko Bar and Restaurant.







Rand coincidentally wearing his Victoria T shirt while trying the cervaza Victoria.








We have made incredible headway (for us) since leaving Bocas del Toro, Panama April 28th. In fact in five weeks we have travelled 830.862 miles (722 nautical miles ) bringing our miles travelled since leaving Florida in 2007 to 6231.47 miles (5415 nautical miles).  WOW!!!  




Saturday, July 23, 2011

Roatan

The short 34 mile hop to Roatan probably will take us all day with light winds and following seas. The motor sail in fact takes us ten hours. There are numerous potential anchorages along Roatans’ South coast.  With all the positive comments we make Old French Harbour our first stop.

The entrance should have been straight forward. Lynn (me) does bow detail, photo in hand. The depth should be 30-40 feet at the entrance, make a starboard turn between two stakes, then work our way around the shallow banks on the port side and voila we will be in the anchorage. As we approach the two stakes the water shallows quickly. I can see coral heads and tell Rand to stop, give us reverse….(does this not sound familiar from our Guanaja anchorage?) 

As luck would have it two young local men in a Cayuko motion for us to go around both stakes not between them. As you can imagine our adrenaline is flying.
With apprehension we follow their recommendation hugging the south side of the reef to miss the shallow banks and anchor off Big French Cay with 11.6feet under the keel. The area to our East is a Marine Park. It is absolutely beautiful.
We are anchored off this beautiful private island






which has bronze statues everywhere.









Roatan runs approximately 30 miles NW to SE and is 3 miles wide at its widest.  The second largest barrier reef in the world protects and fringes the coastline.  The Trade winds can howl here, especially in the winter and then of course hurricanes pose a potential threat from June to October. It’s been recommended to travel between anchorages in the mornings before the strong winds pick up each afternoon.

The English speaking descendants from the English, French & Dutch pirates of the 1600’s still inhabit the Bay Islands. Roatan’s population is approximately 30,000. Its main industries are Fishing and Tourism with regular stops by the Cruise ship lines.
Next morning we dinghy over to the Roatan Yacht Club. General information shared by cruisers states we can probably leave our dinghy here for $1.00 US and walk a block to the grocery store. Unfortunately it’s totally closed. No boats and the gate is locked. To the left is a small dock where Rand first drops me off then he goes back to a small landing area where he has to climb over a cement wall.






Walking up over the hill we find the main road and walk into French Harbour, home to one of the largest fishing/shrimp fleets in the Western Caribbean. There are a number of small Tiendas (stores). We find a sign saying TIGO. Now TIGO is one of Honduras’ phone systems and has been highly recommended to us not only for a SIM card for our phone but for a wifi system. We need to purchase a special USB stick and a separate SIM card.  As long as we can get a good phone signal we will be able to get wifi.  Well, unfortunately the Tienda has none available at this time. However, the store owner invites us to share a taxi with her daughter that would drop us off at a mall where there is a large TIGO retail outlet. After a side trip to a local school we arrive at the mall only to find everything closed except a grocery store and a couple of restaurants. Thinking it is 10 am we can’t understand why everything is closed.  It turns out it is in fact 9am and somewhere along our travels we have gained an hour??
Next day we introduce ourselves to Roy (S/V Avion) asking him questions on this area. He confirms Fantasy Island Resort appreciates cruisers coming ashore; that there is in fact a small marina attached to the Resort with Jim and Norma (S/V Mi-Lady)  the Dock masters and they facilitate a morning net on Channel 72.  We go ashore to meet Jim and Norma.  They explain there is a $6.00 a load laundry service available and that each Saturday morning there is a complimentary van service to the main grocery store. We take advantage of both services. We can also take jerry cans in the van to stock up on diesel and gasoline. The price here for diesel is $4.00 a gallon compared to the $6.00 a gallon in Providencia…so anyone that can wait for fuel…Roatan is much more reasonable.


The SUN Supermarket is FANTASTIC!!! They had excellent quality fruits and vegetables. Many we have not seen in years…A great cracker assortment and we can’t forget wine: Almaden 5 litre boxes for 257.75 Lempira which is equivalent to $12.88 US. Not bad, not bad. A bank machine is conveniently around the corner as is the gas station.

Jim and Norma also explain with the Roatan Yacht Club closed we can leave our dinghy at the fishing fleet dock which is to the right of the Yacht Club. We did this for additional provisioning trips.
We did go to the Fantasy Island Resort a number of times. The food was not great but the people were very friendly always welcoming us. At the resort we saw the endangered Agouti. Cute for a rodent. In 1996 it became endangered due to on going habitat loss.






The resort was almost empty the 10 days we were in the anchorage. It was easy to find quiet secluded spots for our daily baths.  We found the snorkelling best between the Fantasy Island Resort and Coco View.


One day we heard the Yacht Club Restaurant was in
fact open.  High States in background.








 I hiked my way up from the fishing fleet dock and explained to the Restaurant that we wanted to leave the dinghy at their dock, go shop and come back for lunch.  They said no problem and sent one of the guards down to unlock the gate for Rand. They explained they had just revamped the restaurant and hotel. It’ll be awhile before the marina is re-opened. We explained how they were loosing business as cruisers would come for meals and suggested possibly installing a bell system down at the dock gate. They thought it was a good idea.





We decide it is time to head around to Sandy Bay, West End Marine Park and wait for a weather window that will take us to the Rio Dulce, Guatemala.
Entering the marine park between two white markers, we had 2.4feet under the keel. We stopped and backed up once as we could see coral heads everywhere. 

High States on a mooring ball.  There are seven boats in the anchorage which has 20 mooring balls.



We were pleasantly surprised when Terry and Jonesy (S/V Niki Wiki) greet us. They are the park host boat and share the parks rules and regulations.











We really enjoyed this west end area. What a funky town.

This is definitely a tourist stop with many people brought in by bus from cruise ships.














We shop on the quiet days and enjoy a number of restaurants. Unfortunately the only negative aspect is we are both being eaten alive by sand flies and mosquitoes.
 The west end is known best for its snorkelling and diving. We saw at least 12 lobster.



Our new friends on Niki Wiki along with our new Canadian friends Karen and Cheryl  S/V Interlude IX have invited us to buddy boat with them to Rio Dulce. Tentative date as long as the weather holds will be June 2nd.



Karen and Cheryl (Interlude IX) forward us a web-site in Livingston so that we can pre- check in with an agent in Livingston before leaving Roatan.  














 







  






Friday, July 8, 2011

FROM THE HOBBIES TO GUANAJA, (WAH-NAH-HA)

Bay Islands, Honduras, 170 nautical miles....

Saturday May 14th.  Wanting an early start Rand and I both woke up at 0400hours. (Excited I guess.)  Rand made coffee while I stowed the last few things away.  I think we are really getting into these long journeys---well, long for us.

By 0605 hours the anchor is up.  Tim and Paula (Hooligan) whom we had met in Providencia had shared waypoints with us that would safely take us across the bank. It turned out the waypoints had been given to them by our good friends Kathy and Derek (Idyll Island) who now are in the South Pacific.  Cruisers helping cruisers, what can we say.….


We worked our way first to 16 degrees 02.253N;  83 degrees 10.479W.






By 0915 we arrived at waypoint 16 degrees 04.053N; 83degrees 22.663W exciting the reef setting our rhumline to Guanaja.  There is absolutely no wind, a gentle northerly swell which means it is time to fish. Within an hour and a half we had two strikes.

Our third hit feels like it's a keeper.














Sure enough it is a 15 to 20 pound King Mackerel.














 Sunday May 15th. Finally this morning 0700 hours we've got enough wind to sail.
Five and a half hours later we’re 6 miles off the Sheen Cay Channel entrance of Guanaja. We’re surprised to see a blanket of haze over the Island.














As we work our way in to the recommended Il Bight anchorage Lynn (that’s me) is on the bow.  Following our regular routine, every few minutes I ask Rand to confirm the depth that I think I am seeing. Using his fingers one finger per foot we confirm what I think I am seeing is in fact what he sees on the depth sounder.

Approaching Dunbar Rock I start yelling…stop, stop….reverse.  reverse…..All I can see is coral heads that look too shallow to cross.



We hail Genesis who we had met in Providencia to ask for their waypoints crossing this reef.  They give us three sets of waypoints and sure enough we went right over the reef with a few feet to spare.







After anchoring we dinghy over to Genesis to say Thank You and offer them King Mackerel. Turned out they were also fortunate to catch fish on their way here so declined. 



By 1830hours it was too buggy to relax in the cockpit so we closed up the boat and had a movie night.









Monday…So last night was buggy….well, this morning is real buggy… We both have bites and they are ITCHY, ITCHY, ITCHY!!!! The diaper rash cream helps.

 One of the reasons for stopping in Guanaja is the quick and easy check in for Honduras.  Once the Port Captain arrived at his office check in was quick, easy and no cost. The same with Immigration. We were told we could stay for 60 days.













Guanaja, one of the three major “Bay Islands” is approximately 10 ½ miles long and at its widest point 3 miles with elevations up to 1350 feet.  Guanaja is approximately 30 nautical miles off the North coast of Honduras.


The most Hispanic Island, Guanaja is 30% Black.  We found the people very friendly.  Many spoke English. This is probably due to the Bay Islands being British until 1861. One young man “Jimmy Carter” said he would watch our dinghy.  We said Jimmy Carter? He said ”Yup, that’s my name now.” We said okay but still locked the dinghy to the dock. Plus an hour later we saw him at a Tienda buying himself a drink…which means he was not watching the dinghy…Oh well, no tip for him.

The main town Bonacca is in fact not on the main Island of Guanaja but on two small islets  to the south of the main island joined by cement boardwalks intersected by canals.













Now we are talking a real small set of Islets…It’s mind boggling that 8,000 of  Guanaja’s  10,000 inhabitants  live on Bonacca. We were amazed and impressed with its huge shrimping fleet.













There is not  room for even one more house..
















On our way back to High States we checked out a couple of restaurants finding them both closed.  We decide we will leave tomorrow for Roatan.