CURACAO

We are amazed at how quickly these past 2 ½ months have flown by. The Immigration Rules allow us to stay for a maximum of 90 days total between Bonaire and Curacao. We have been told to provision in Curacao before heading further west as the assortment is better and prices more reasonable.

It's very easy to take the boat into Harbour Village Marina to fill up on fuel and water.

And we have to get in one more day of snorkelling with Tom and Bonnie (Toujours)

This Flying Gurnard has iridescent blue lines and dot markings.

Wed. Nov. 4th
Goodbye to Bonaire at 0400hrs.
We’ve got very light winds.

By 0800 we can see Curacao pronounced "Cure a so "
We've had no luck with our new fishing gear.

1440hrs. N12*04.681 W68*51.584 We’re anchored in Spaanse (pronounced Spanish) Water. This 36 nm trip took approximately 8 hours, one hour working our way into Spaanse Water.

It looks like we may be in a channel….markings are not clear…..We called over a passing dinghy, Pam & Bill off Songbird who we met in Grenada (not Pat & Carol whom we met in the DR)…They say, Yes, we’re pretty close so we decide to move just to be on the safe side..,
1515hrs. We’re re-anchored across the “channel” . Sure enough a local comes by in a sailing skiff---“You’re in the channel; you have to move”.. Two hours later this fellow comes by again by dinghy with a “map” in hand stating we along with a number of boats are anchored in the wrong location. We say no problem. Of coarse by this time we are frustrated and say we’ll move tomorrow morning as Song Bird plan to leave at 0900hrs, so we’ll go up to their spot.

Nov.5
By 0940 We’re pulling up anchor and hopefully for the last time will be re anchored at N12*04.653 W68*51.466. We’re in 30.4 feet with 130 feet of chain out.

Now we need to make the trip into the Capital, Willemstad, to check in with Customs, Immigration and then the Harbour Authority for an anchoring permit. (This is a first)
We make our way to the dinghy dock which is located at the Fisherman’s wharf and then the short walk to the bus station. We asked a couple if we were at the right place. They said yes, but we just missed the bus and the next one would not come by for an hour. We decided to start walking. By the time we reach the next “Bushalte”, we are hot and tired. Who are to become our new friends Hank and Diana stopped and kindly offered us a ride down town. It turns out they spend half the year on Curacao and the other half in Upper State New York.

Before we know it it’s lunch time so we stop at a restaurant and are entertained with the floating bridge. This pedestrian bridge has to be opened every time a vessel needs to enter the Willemstad canal.

Customs is very straight forward. We did take a couple of wrong turns finding Immigration. We stopped and asked a few people but they had no idea of the correct location. Finally, there was a very official looking gentleman at the cruise ship dock. We stopped and asked him if he knew where Immigration was….Sure enough we were at the location; just needed to walk down to the dock and make a left. Again forms were easy to fill out and no cost. Last stop is the Harbour Authority who want to know on their map exactly where the boat is and how long we are planning to stay. Now firstly, their map is different from the one the man in the anchorage had, and two, we are under no circumstance allowed to move without prior approval from the Harbour Authority.

Curacao is only 35miles north of Venezuela and 43 miles from Aruba. The origin of this islands name is under debate, One explanation is it is derived from the Portuguese word for “heart” which is Curacao because the island is heart shaped. Curacao is 37 miles long and between 3 and 9 miles wide. The population is over 150,000 with the official language being Dutch. English, Spanish and Papiamento are widely spoken.
We found Willemstad delightful and made a point of travelling the 45 minute ride by bus into this historical city. It is unfortunate it is so far away from the Spaanse Water anchorage.

We are disappointed with the wi-fi signal on the boat. Time for a strong antenna. We did however enjoy the supermarket’s private bus. It would arrive at 1000hours daily and take us to “Vreugdenhil”. They had a very good selection filling most of our needs.

As far as the anchorage; we are very thankful we spent most of our time in Bonaire. I honestly think the locals who use Spaanse Water would prefer us not to anchor here. The cigarette boats speed by as do the large motor boats kicking up huge swells and then all the small sailboats and sunfish boats sail through the anchorage not bothering to use the channels..,,Even the Yacht Club that has a cruiser Happy hour twice a week handed out a notice saying it is okay to use their dock for the Happy hour but one must join the club to use the dock at any other time. The fishermen’s dinghy dock was friendlier with a 24 hour guard, but could be lengthened three times from its 15 feet.

It was fortunate there were public garbage cans across the street from the fisherman’s wharf as no garbage was to be left in the fishermen’s garbage cans.
We explored Spaanse Waater by dinghy and came across this small channel where we found a golf coarse.

Many of the homes reminded us of Shawnigan Lake at home.

The Venezuelan boats arrive with fresh produce at a downtown market.

Nov. 12 We felt very priviledged being invited to Hank and Diana's home .

The next evening we went out for dinner for Hanks Birthday

Nov. 14 Water delivery from Bridgette was well worth the 12cents a litre.

Nov. 16 An impromptu lunch break with fellow cruisers. The majority of us had gone into Willemstad separately to check out and ended up in the same restaurant.

Nov. 17th. 0500hrs. We’re up trying to send a couple of emails but keep loosing the signal. We’re heading for Santa Cruz Baii with a two day stay permit.

We are in fact concerned the Swiss boat that anchored in front of us may have their anchor lying on top of ours. We had contacted them last night stating we were planning to leave this morning around 7am. They too were planning to leave but not until nine. They were in fact up early getting organized but by 0710hrs they did not have their engine on so we put all our fenders on our starboard side. The woman yelled over they couldn’t get their engine started while the husband looked like he was reading a novel?? So, slowly we moved forward, Randy slowly raising the anchor cleaning the chain along the way. Six feet apart and alongside them our anchor is up, but we both are stressed.
By 0800hours we’re through Spaanse Water channel. We’ve got only a bit of wind and a gentle swell off our port stern.

Rand has spent the past forty-five minutes re-doing the foresail roller furling line that has come off its spool. Thank goodness it is calm.

We’re anchored in the gorgeous Santa Cruz Baii. There is only one other boat, the Canadian vessel “Dorothy Ellen”. We had met Pam and Don in Trinidad so we snorkelled over to say Hello.

Even with the Baii being very nice we’ve decided one night is enough and we should take advantage of this good weather window and head on for Aruba.

LOOK WHO'S HERE

With a suitcase full of "goodies" Sean and Carlie arrive for a week of fun and sun.... We had asked them to bring a new computer so I can get back on track updating the blog. Sean helped me transfer all documents and pictures from the old computer which I sure appreciated.

Also, they brought us a great Christmas Gift...An underwater camera....Thank you Sean, Carlie and Ash...

We had a friendly visit from the local Guarda Costa. We thought initially Ohh Ohh, what have we done? Drugs and smuggloing are a problem in the ABC's so they just wanted to say hello checking our papers and passports.

Renting a car is easy and inexpensive on Bonaire. Sean and Carlie enjoyed learning to wind surf at Lac Bay.

This candlestick or organ pipe cacti can grow 10 feet tall. Cadushi in Pampiamento, is used to build fences, keeping the herds of goats and donkeys out of ones garden. These fences, also known as trankera, are grown by planting the straight trunks of equal lengths alongside one another where they root and require very little water.

Sean trying out our "Louis". We purchased this alternate to scuba diving from a friend in Grenada. The air compressor is run by our Honda generator which makes cleaning the hull so much easier for Randy.

We had a great evening out for dinner at "It Rains Fishes"

And now for a few underwater shots....

A juvenile Baracuda.

A Parrot Fish; note the bleaching of coral.

One of the many beautiful eels we see on a regular basis.

Angel Fish

This is a file fish.

This turtle hung around for days.

Before we knew it the week flew by...but we are thankful to have the great memories of your visit Sean and Carlie. Love to you both...

HEADING WEST---BONAIRE HERE WE COME!!!

After almost one month travelling the remote Out Islands of Venezuela it's time to make our way to Bonaire.

Tues. Aug 25th
0540 hours and I’m awoken by the engine starting.
0600 hours; everything is stowed away…Rand has made coffee.
0630 hours; We’re heading out to our first waypoint, me on the bow; using our track but always cautious.

Idyll Island off our starboard flying their spinacker.
By 0700 hours we’ve got little wind and of coarse rolly ESE seas. Very frustrating, the motor is back on and now the seas are from the NNE. Again this is where we are happy by ourselves as any company would not find this fun.

Around noon as we are closing in on Bonaire a Coast Guard plane flew over us. We have read there is a very well equipped Coast Guard Sea Rescue organization for the ABC’s. They protect the area as far north as 17degrees (almost to Haiti & the DR) and between 67degreesW and 74degreesW; against smuggling, drug trafficking. We’re happy to see them.

As we round the southern end of Bonaire we are hit with a distinctive unpleasant smell. It’s like seagull feces invading our nostrils. We think in fact it’s the salt ponds.

Derek just hailed us and said he checked out three mooring for us, very nice of him, and they’ll stand by for us to pass them our lines. Such great friends.

By 1630hrs. we’re secure on the mooring, quickly clean up for a trip to Customs & Immigration. There is no anchoring allowed in Bonaire as their surrounding waters are designated a National Marine Park. There are 40 six ton block moorings off the Bonaire capital Kralendijk. Presently we are one of only nine visiting cruising boats using these moorings which we have been told is not the norm. Customs & Immigration were very straight forward, friendly and there was no cost. Being after 1630 hours Immigration forms were filled out at the Police Station.

As per the 2008 Census Bonaire’s population is over 15,000 with immigrants from 106 countries. Bonaire continues to be part of the Netherlands Antilles. In fact the people of Bonaire seem to be having challenges with “new faces” arriving in Bonaire with new ideas especially for Klein Bonaire "Little Bonaire",in regards to commercialization and development . When Klein Bonaire was purchased some ten years ago with the help of the Dutch Government, the World Wildlife Fund, plus private funding---very strict rules and regulations were set. Klein Bonaire is to be kept pristine and uninhabited. No docks, no piers. Now with cruise ships visiting the island is threatened with overcrowding and commercialism. There are 24 dive and 20 snorkel sites on Klein Bonaire and 63 dive, 33 snorkel sites on Bonaire.

Bonaire is approx. 112 sq. miles, 24 miles long by 3 to 7 miles wide. Mont Brandaris is 790 feet high.

We are always excited when we get into a new port with our first priority after checking in to find a wifi hot spot so we can communicate with family and friends. This restaurant said yes we have wifi, so we bought a 3 hour card but unfortunately it did not work.

Aug. 27th HAPPY BIRTHDAY RAND.. Before celebrating we had the task of laundry.

We finished off the day celebrating at “It Rains Fishes” with Derek and Cathy.

One afternoon we snorkelled off the Rum Runner Bar and Grill with Cathy and Derek swimming with five tarpon. One tarpon was almost five feet long. We also saw our first squid. Awesome!!!

Jay and Jennifer; this is the landlubber's Rum Runner!

On Monday's at the Rum Runner Bar and Grill they have a complimentary Rum punch Happy Hour where you can make a donation to the local animal shelter.

Another great snorkel with the tarpons .

This is one way to recycle tires. Siesta in town is between 1200 and 1400 hours with all stores closed. Sundays all retail outlets are closed. We use the Netherlands Guilder here—1.78 NAF to $1 US. US dollars are always accepted. Being a tourist destination for so many years the people in the service industry are very friendly.

A day does not go by without snorkelling….not only a great way to keep cool but fun to try and see new fish species---honeycomb cow fish, lizard fish, black snakes, eels, very large eyed chequered puffers, they are so cute, an octopus, plus we could not believe our luck in finding the black seahorse.

Sun. Sept.6.
We had a very full day exploring the island with Cathy and Derek. Renting a car we went to see Washington Slagbaii National Park where we were enchanted with the Pink Flamingos. The only filter feeder among birds they use their long legs to stir up mud and their tongue as a fast action plunger to sieve through their coarse lamellae (filters) for tiny molluscs, shrimp, and brine fly larvae. Their breeding season is between March and July. The South Caribbean colony is estimated at 50,000 with 7500 on Bonaire.

Rand and Derek

The Park looks like a moonscape.

And of coarse being such an arid Island there are acres of Cactus.

There are twelve Wind Turbines along Bonaire’s NE Coast. Bonaire residents are very excited as this will mean more reliable and less expensive electricity. Imagine your hydro bill at home being $700. instead of $100. The 12 turbines will supply 50% of Bonaire’s power needs.

We did see the Lora Parrot…yellow shouldered Amazon Parrot. We read recently that an amnesty period has been given to the island parrot owners so they can register their Lora Parrot or be fined for poaching. It is estimated 26% of Lora chicks have been lost to poachers.

Our next stop was the town of Rincon which is celebrating Bonaire Flag Day.
Rincon is in fact the first settlement on Bonaire.

Lastly we ended our day down at Lac Bay watching the wind surfing. A startling article in the local newspaper has assessed the mangrove forest of Lac Bay and it is in trouble due to the impact of goats and humans. A wetland ecologist from Florida said “If the mangroves are not helped by humans they will die….This grim summarization is the same statement made two years ago about Bonaire’s reefs. When we first arrived here and went on our first snorkel we were in fact surprised that so much of the reef is bleached; we are only beginning to understand they are gone and may not have an opportunity to recover.

Friday Sept. 11 I got stung by a jellyfish on the left side of my face. By Saturday it was not only bright red as if burnt, but swollen and very ugly. Three days later I am still swollen and red so decide to go to the Clinic----Three hours later the doctor says, the worst is over…just continue with the anti-histamines. Having these quiet days Randy rewired the bow navigational lights.

We’ve experienced our first wind reversal. Being woken just after midnight, we got lots of wind and high seas from the South. Randy ends up staying in the cockpit all night and sends me back to bed at 0400hrs. We watched as the local fishermen came out to rescue their small boats dangerously taking them into the safety of the marina . Randy started our engine to be ready in case we had to abandon our mooring. The wind reversal puts our stern 120 feet from shore with 6 feet under the keel.

The following day continues to be MISERABLE !!! The swell is gruesome! Bottles are literally flying off shelves. Trying to have dinner in the cockpit and Rand’s wineglass flew out of its holder all over the cockpit. With the no anchor rule we can not put out our stern anchor to help keep us into the swells. Alot of the swells are from the passing Dive boats.

High States on it's mooring.

We can never have enough beautiful sunsets.

Two weeks later we have another wind reversal Thank goodness this one started at 0500 hours instead of midnight.

Visibility???

The local regatta has started and we’ve said good-bye to Cathy and Derek…they’re off to Curacao.

Our new Dutch friends Hans and Linda “Baros”

For those of you who are wondering are we spending our day just having fun snorkelling we continue to fill our days with small projects. Today it was me waterproofing the bimini, hoping to get one more season out of it and Randy replacing the leaking cold water line.

And we've had good news: SEAN & CARLIE ARE COMING FOR A VISIT!!!! Oct. 24th.